Friday, August 7, 2015

Goodbye, Namibia


It’s nearly impossible to articulate what it’s like to leave your community after 2 years.  It’s really such a strange thing.  When else will I dedicate two years of my life to people and a place that I know I will leave after a limited amount of time?

The past month has been a whirlwind for my husband and me. Finishing admin work at the school and wrapping up my classes, traveling to Windhoek for a final conference, sorting and packing up our flat, preparing to leave, saying goodbyes…  It’s been very full, which makes the time feel as though it’s moving even faster.

Last school assembly - Aaron's soccer team saying thanks
There were many difficult goodbyes – sending our dog back to the States before us, saying goodbye to the 30 other volunteers in our group who began this journey with us, saying goodbye to local friends at our farewell braai, our last school staff function, the last hug I gave to my best friend, and fellow volunteer, Katie. To my surprise, the most difficult goodbye was to the kids.  It didn’t matter that some of my high school students drove me half insane on a daily basis, or seemed not to care or pay attention to my English lessons – when I stood before them and said a final goodbye – that, without a doubt, was the worst.  I know I’ll be getting on a plane and flying off on another incredible adventure with my husband.  But these kids will remain there.  These kids whose faces I have seen on a daily basis over the course of 3 school years.  And I don’t know if I’ll ever see them again.

I’m probably very similar to most volunteers who ask themselves if they did enough, if there was any impact, if they could’ve done more. This is also the plague of many teachers in general.  I can say, though, that I leave with the hope that some seeds were planted.  Many times this is how it is for a teacher – hope that they learned something from you. And let go of the things that are out of your control, the things that you cannot change.

This past month has been interesting.  Aaron & I have definitely had the up-and-down swings throughout our time here.  But as began to see that the finish line was just before us, the dark times really faded into the background, and only good memories were left. 

Final sundowner 
I know that as time goes on, memory fades.  But I hope to hold on to as much as possible from our life here.  I want to remember my 7 minute commute through the sand on my way to school each morning, looking out over the vast landscape from my 2nd story kitchen windows as I washed the dishes, spending many weekends with great friends from the Peace Corps (who have become family to us), the honor of being able to help an 8th grader learn to read for the first time, hearing summaries of the books kids checked out from our new school library from excited students, watching Aaron coach the soccer team and witness the relationships they built together, sundowners in the hills, the many runs I took with our dog Soraya – our first pet, the giggling group of small children who would sometimes join me while I ran (for as long as they could), staff meetings every morning and the great sense of humor of our staff, potjies, braais, Bullring, Shooters, new friends, class parties, Student of the Month lunch celebrations at Spur, hikes in the open field, playing with our host sisters, teaching English, watching movies on our laptop at home after a long day, ... and these are just memories from our daily lives.  I, of course, also want to remember the incredible holidays we had here in Namibia and abroad - Etosha, Sossusvlei, Cape Town, Opuwo, Caprivi, Victoria Falls, Fish River Canyon, etc.

I’m beyond grateful and feel incredibly blessed to have been afforded the opportunity to come to Namibia to live, learn and serve for two years.  It feels as if you leave part of your heart behind, as you just suddenly get up and leave the community that you’ve lived in for 2 years.  Yet, I’d rather think of it in a different way; that instead I leave with yet a bigger heart, one that's grown because I now carry these people and memories with me forever.

last day of teaching 


COS conference
COS conference 


Peace Corps Namibia Group 38
Teachers with their best teacher faces




Business volunteers

Last time together as Group 38  - Sai Sin Ceremony

Such a familiar scene: My frequent running route with Sorarya, my loyal running companion

Goodbye school assembly

Student of the Month Party





Helpers at the KJSS library
Goodbye party with my school colleagues



Coach Aaron in his last soccer tournament 

Goal!!!!!

KJSS 3-0 in first 3 games -- lost in the quarter-finals




Goodbye party in Keetmans







Aaron's soccer captains

Sundowner in Keetmans on our last night


Bye, Keetmans!

Our awesome host family 

Off to Windhoek on a train







First of our group 38 to COS - last braai together


The Chameleon Backpackers -- our home away from home in Windhoek 

Official RPCVs!  Celebrating at the Hilton!

Still discovering new places after 2 years: Penduka Lodge in Katatura, Windhoek during our last weekend in Namibia

Monday, June 15, 2015

Signs that your Peace Corps service is coming to an end

The Rhenish Mission Church in Keetmanshoop, 1895
The past several months have FLOWN by!  In just one month, we will officially be RPCVs (Returned Peace Corps Volunteers)!  I’m trying desperately to wrap up everything (in my power) before the time expires, which apparently also means pumping out a few more blogs while we are still here.

How do you prepare for the end of your Peace Corps service?  I have no idea.  All I know is that I have an interesting cocktail of emotions floating around inside of me at any given moment: excitement for our upcoming travels in South America & ticking a few more things off the ‘ol bucket list (not to mention, sharpening up on Spanish again); sadness at saying good-bye to our closest friends – fellow volunteers and Namibians alike; worry that our poor dog is going to be permanently psychologically traumatized from her Trans-Atlantic flight to America (yes, we are adopting the pup for good!  She’ll be an African-American soon); anxiety about the work we’ve done here – will some of the projects continue?  Did we do enough?  Did this matter?; happiness with the anticipation of being back home in our beloved Austin, surrounded by our family and friends again; stress about finding jobs, buying health insurance, cars, and all the other grown-up stuff that comes with living in America again; somberness at the fact that we will likely never see some people in our community ever again; guilt for leaving my students behind – I get to return to a 1st world country, they don’t have that choice.  And on and on.  Oh, there’s plenty of things to feel right now.

And yet I’ve noticed a few subtle hints that maybe it’s time to go…


  •  Everything is breaking.  For example, our laptop charger.  Luckily I was able to buy a universal charger (25% of our monthly salary later…) in town.
  •   The plug for our washing machine, and incidentally the socket as well, exploded last week.  Back to hand-washing.  [Note: most PCVs in Namibia DO NOT have a washing machine.  This was donated to us from a friend.  It was fantastic while it lasted.]
  • Our iPod and portable speaker were stolen.  Or maybe we donated them to the community.  Forgot to take them back inside after a braai & of course they were quickly snatched up
  • Our pillows are so chunky, that sleeping is now becoming a challenge.  These were the most expensive ($3US) pillows in town.  It’s not worth it to buy another round.  Chunky really is the best adjective for their current state.
  •  Speaking of sleeping, we can now feel the springs in our mattress poking into our backs after 2 years of use.
  • All but three of our bowls have broken.  Our knives are so dull that cutting a tomato is a real struggle.  There is other kitchen drama – basically, everything is operating on its last leg.
  •  Our space heater only has one bulb still working.  This heater was key to our survival last winter, especially during the freezing cold nights (no central heat anywhere, of course).  Now we look like Wildlings from the Game of Thrones, walking around our flat covered with blankets from head to toe.



Ok, so some volunteers live in mud huts in the north and would scoff at this list.  Fair.  We’re definitely not suffering. Just taking in the signs that maybe it’s an appropriate time for this journey to end.  When the can-opener failed open a can last week, I just smiled and mentally added it to the list.  It’s going to be hard to leave, really hard.  But, I guess the time has come. In the mean time, we will try to savor everything, knowing there will never be a time or a place like this again in our lives. 








Friday, June 12, 2015

A day in the life of a Namibian teenager

I interviewed a few of my students about their daily lives and favorite things.  Here is what they had to say, in their own words!

Meet Destiny!


What is your full name? Desiree Destiny Vries
Where were you born? Windhoek
How old are you? 18 What grade are you in?  10th
What is your home language? Afrikaans
What other languages do you speak? English, Nama (Khoekhoegowag)
From what tribe are you? Damara & Nama mix.
How many brothers & sisters do you have? one brother (18 yrs old), one sister (7)
Who do you live with? My stepfather, my brother, my sister, my aunt
How long does it take to walk to school? 4 minutes
What is your daily schedule like? After school (at 1:00) I get out of my school uniform, eat lunch, go practice soccer, come home & listen to music, bathe, cook, eat, and sleep.
What are your hobbies? Playing soccer and dancing
What do you usually eat for lunch?  Bread, french fries, and sausage.  Dinner?  Pap (porridge) & meat (usually sheep).
What’s your favorite food? Pizza.
How long do you study each week? 2 hours  
How much homework do you have every day? 5 or 6 subjects
What is your favorite school subject?  English
What do you want to be when you grow up? An office woman, I want to have my own office
What do you do on the weekends? Usually I have soccer games that I have to play, but sometimes I go to parties.   And Sundays are for church.
Who is your favorite celebrity? Rihanna
Where is the coolest place you’ve ever visited?  Walvis Bay, Namibia, because the sea is very beautiful.
Where in the world would you visit if you could? Botswana, because the greatest women soccer players are there.
What do you want Americans to know about Namibia?  Namibia is a cool country.  We have many resources, which the Americans would like.
About Namibians?  Namibians are very hardworking people, they are not bad people. 

Meet Maria!


What is your full name? Maria Lungambo Amutenya
Where were you born? Ondangwa
How old are you?  18    What grade? 10th
What is your home language? Oshiwambo
What other languages do you speak? English, Afrikaans
From what tribe are you? Oshiwambo
How many brothers & sisters do you have? Two brothers (14 yrs, 1 yr)
Who do you live with? My mom, my dad, my 2 aunts, my 2 cousins and my small brother.
How long does it take to get to school? 10 minutes
What is your daily schedule like? When I get home from school, I watch TV, go through my school work, clean the house, and eat. I go to sleep at 7:00 p.m.
What are your hobbies? Dancing and singing and reading.
What do you usually eat for lunch/dinner?  I usually eat porridge & meat (red meat), and for dinner sometimes we eat rice and meat or chicken.
What’s your favorite food? Meat!
How long do you study each week?  10 hours (2 hours a day)
How much homework do you have every day? 4 subjects each day.
What is your favorite school subject?  English and Life Science
What do you want to be when you grow up? A medical doctor.
What do you do on the weekends? I usually go to my church classes, so I’m not home very much on the weekends.
Who is your favorite celebrity? Beyonce and Hannah Montana
Where is the coolest place you’ve ever visited?  Luderitz – because it’s a nice place, and my old friends are there.  Also Tsumeb because of the plants and the greenery, it’s also quiet there.
Where in the world would you visit if you could? USA because I want to meet new people.
What do you want Americans to know about Namibia? I want them to see our animals – they should visit Etosha, and see how the country looks.
About Namibians?  I want them to know about the cultures, how we live here, and how some kids are suffering.

Meet Karina!


What is your full name? Karina Conny Lee Shilongo
Where were you born? Oshakati
How old are you?  17    What grade? 9th
What is your home language? Oshiwambo
What other languages do you speak? English, Afrikaans
From what tribe are you? Oshiwambo & Angolan
How many brothers & sisters do you have? 7 sisters and 3 brothers
Who do you live with? My big brother (40 years old) and his wife
How long does it take to get to school? 15 minutes
What is your daily schedule like?  When I get home from school I start studying, watch TV, play soccer with my brother.
What are your hobbies? Reading books and watching TV (telenovelas).
What do you usually eat for lunch/dinner?  Lunch – chicken & macaroni, Dinner – meat (goat) & porridge
What’s your favorite food? Chicken
How long do you study each week?  30 minutes each day Monday –Friday, and 15 minutes on Saturdays & Sundays.
How much homework do you have every day? 5 subjects
What is your favorite school subject?  History, English, Geography
What do you want to be when you grow up? A doctor.
What do you do on the weekends? Study, wash my school uniform, go to church.  I like watching TV on the weekends.
Who is your favorite celebrity? Rihanna
Where is the coolest place you’ve ever visited?  Windhoek (the capital) because it’s the most beautiful place to be.
Where in the world would you visit if you could? USA because I want to see how it looks, what kind of things they do there, what kinds of traditions they have there.
What do you want Americans to know about Namibia?  I’d like them to know what our schools look like, what our uniforms look like, and what kinds of products we develop and produce here (like the fish factory in Luderitz).
About Namibians?  I want them to know about our culture, our different people, and how we have different tribes & how we communicate.

Meet Epison!


What is your full name? Epison Shange Mopyene
Where were you born? Keetmanshoop
How old are you?  17    What grade? 9th
What is your home language? Afrikaans
What other languages do you speak? English, Oshiwambo
From what tribe are you? Oshiwambo
How many brothers & sisters do you have? 2 brothers (12 and 20 yrs old) 1 sister (22 yrs old)
Who do you live with? With my mother, father, 2 brothers and sister
How long does it take to get to school?  30 minutes
What is your daily schedule like?  After school I play video games, I like to watch soccer, and play street soccer
What are your hobbies? Playing soccer, swimming.
What do you usually eat for lunch/dinner?  Lunch – bread & maybe some meat or soup, Dinner – We eat meat (sheep) & rice.  Before we sleep and for breakfast we eat fruit.
What’s your favorite food? Jell-O
How long do you study each week?  2 hours each day
How much homework do you have every day? 4 subjects every day
What is your favorite school subject?  English, Math, Life Science
What do you want to be when you grow up? A medical driver (ambulance)
What do you do on the weekends? I help my mom with washing clothes, and cleaning the house.  I enjoy it.
Who is your favorite celebrity? Michael Jackson
Where is the coolest place you’ve ever visited?  Walvis Bay, because the people are friendly, the weather is nice, people don’t judge other people – they’re just cool.
Where in the world would you visit if you could? Los Angeles, USA, because I’ve heard many things about it.
What do you want Americans to know about Namibia? That it’s a good place, but the thing that hurts me the most is that many people are abusing alcohol here, and many young girls have babies.


Meet Jacques!


What is your full name? Jacques Titus
Where were you born? Keetmanshoop
How old are you?  16    What grade? 9th
What is your home language? Afrikaans
What other languages do you speak? English, Nama (Khoekhoegowag)
From what tribe are you? Nama, Damara
How many brothers & sisters do you have? 1 brother (19 years) and 4 sisters (from 10-24 years old)
Who do you live with? My three aunts and 1 uncle, my brother, and 3 cousins
How long does it take to get to school?  10-15 minutes
What is your daily schedule like?  After school I watch movies/TV, I chat with my friends, and play soccer. 
What are your hobbies? Reading newspapers, playing soccer, making jokes with my friends.
What do you usually eat for lunch/dinner?  Lunch – porridge and meat (beef usually), dinner – macaroni with chicken.
What’s your favorite food? Pizza
How long do you study each week?  I don’t study every day, just when it’s important.
How much homework do you have every day? Almost every subject.
What is your favorite school subject?  History, Entrepreneurship, English
What do you want to be when you grow up? A judge/magistrate.
What do you do on the weekends? Mostly I like to go out with my friends, or play games with my friends. 
Who is your favorite celebrity? Cristiano Ronaldo
Where is the coolest place you’ve ever visited?  Luderitz, because it’s good to be by the sea, and the ecosystems there are interesting. The plants and animals there are different than what we have here. 
Where in the world would you visit if you could? Spain, because Spain has good soccer players.
What do you want Americans to know about Namibia?  I would tell them about our different animals that we have here, and the way that we live here and the way they live there is very different.  We have a beautiful country.
About Namibians?  That we have many different cultures, that we have beautiful people. 


Friday, May 29, 2015

The books have a home!


There are few projects while volunteering with the Peace Corps that you can actually “finish.”  So, I’m happy to say that our school library finally has a home, and is up-and-running.

In October 2013 I asked friends and family to donate library books to our school, as I saw that there were NONE.  Two years later we have over 1,600 books!  The Ministry of Education has promised to continue to send boxes every year, so hopefully in time the library will continue to grow, and this is only the beginning.

During the last school year I was running the library out of my classroom, but the boxes of donated books just kept coming, and they outgrew my shelves.  This year, teachers shifted classrooms around and we were able to provide an entire classroom that is to be used exclusively as a library.


This is just a final note of gratitude to all of the generous givers that contributed to this project.  We talk a lot about sustainability in the Peace Corps; I’m confident that these books, the impact of the stories within them, the literacy skills that are built, and the curiosity that blossoms will live on in the lives of these young Namibians who now have access to a beautiful library. 




Wednesday, February 11, 2015

There and back again


I survived my first complete year of teaching in Namibia.  Maybe with a few scratches and bruises, but none the worse for wear. The 2014 school year wrapped up in late November (a few weeks early due to the Presidential Election on November 28), and a new year began on January 12th.  Teaching is definitely the hardest thing I’ve ever done, but it’s tough to beat those long breaks (which are necessary, in my opinion, to maintain sanity).

End of year celebration of Students of the Month at Spur with milkshakes and burgers

Students of the Month party at Spur

Everyone's happy on the last day of school!


Aaron & I had the great privilege to travel back home to the US over the school holiday.  We have been out of the country for about a year & a half, and I was honestly nervous about going home.  As the philosopher Heraclitus said, “No man ever steps in the same river twice, for it’s not the same river and he’s not the same man.”   I’m not sure what that river looked like now, and I also wondered who I now was.

Buying gifts for friends and fam back home

London layover selfie:  It looked, smelled and felt like Christmas finally!

The contrast of cultures was immediately evident after alighting from the plane in Atlanta.  (Side note: quite an anticlimactic homecoming, as we were meeting our family a few hours later in Asheville, and wouldn’t even be back in Texas until the following week). But hearing the American accent and phrases like, “you’re in the wrong line if you’re not a Falcons fan!” while lining up to go through immigration told me that we were back on American soil. It’s the very subtle things that you realize were different: how Americans make eye contact and smile at strangers, being allowed more personal space, people waiting patiently in organized lines, the loudness of an average public conversation between two people. 

It’s true that travelling and living abroad give you new perspectives on the world that you knew before.

We spent a rich 4 weeks in the US with our family and friends.  We laughed, we celebrated, we shared good conversation. Life in Namibia is so strikingly different from life in Austin, but I felt as though we slipped seamlessly right back into life as we knew it before.  Maybe it’s muscle memory?  I was certainly surprised that I was completely comfortable driving on the right side of the road after traveling on the left hand side for the past 18 months! 

However, I’m not sure that a short trip is indicative of how life will be when we permanently move back.  We didn’t have any stress over finding a job, paying bills, or signing up for health insurance.  Those fun things will be waiting for us later.  Also, I’m not sure that we will even know just how much our Peace Corps experience has impacted us until we have some distance from it.  It was just a quick, soul nourishing time of being in the presence of those whom we love, and who love us.

Leaving America, I was now nervous to come back to Namibia.  Was I going to have to adjust all over again to all the differences? 

The season changed from winter to summer as our plane crossed the Atlantic, and plunged back down into the Southern Hemisphere.  We landed again in Windhoek, this time not as eager, nervous, ignorant Peace Corps trainees, but now as seasoned volunteers. The sweaty heat of the airport was no surprise.  The argument of two men over who was supposed to take us to our hostel was oh so familiar.  We were home again.

But, the sky.  The black, night sky.  The sky, littered with bright stars and the splendor of the Milky Way’s subtle glow, unadulterated by any street lights as we drove away from the airport.  This is what struck me the hardest.  This was the magnificent beauty that I missed in America.




Taking our dog for evening walks

Maybe that is a quadruple rainbow behind me?










Settling back into Namibian life here has been easy.  My eyes have refreshed; my perspective, renewed.  The clock of our service is ticking--we only have 5 more months left.  Being back in the States has reminded me of all the precious things that life here has to offer us, and I don’t want to take any of it for granted.  There are still hard, hard days.  But I know that we will never have this exact opportunity again, and those challenges get washed away in the light of all the good and beauty around us.  So, I guess, we’ll keep going…